What's in Season in March?

First comes David
Then comes Chad
Then comes Winnold, roaring like mad.

St. David's Day Rhyme
East Anglia

There is no doubt that winter is on its way out now. Primroses are pushing through with a promise that spring is definitely on its way. Birds that visit Britain in winter are beginning to head north, while resident birds are preparing for nesting. The rooks are especially in evidence. In addition, summer migrants are beginning to arrive such as the chiff-chaff, the willow warbler and, by the end of the month, the swallows.

The 1st of March is St David's Day (the patron saint of Wales). On the 17th of March, celebrate St Patrick's Day with the delicious Irish dish of Colcannon (mashed potatoes, cabbage and spring onions).

In the shops, the very first spring lamb appears. The excellent lamb from Wales is perfect for serving as a special meal on St David's Day with, of course, leeks. This month the sea yields the first of the mackerel and cockles. In the garden, look for early spinach, radishes and sorrel.

Leeks, the Symbol of Wales

The leek is a vegetable belonging to the same family as the onion and garlic, although it does not form a bulb. The flavour is milder but distinctive. The lower part of the stem is earthed up and remains white.

Leeks are excellent in soups and stews and as a vegetable. They supply a small amount of vitamin C. They are in season from November to March.

You can prepare them easily by removing the coarse outer leaves and cutting off the tops and roots. Wash them very thoroughly splitting them down to within 2.5 cm (1 inch) or so of the bottom, to ensure that all the grit is removed. If necessary cut them through completely. Leeks can be left whole or sliced and cooked in boiling water until they are tender, 10-20 minutes. Drain very thoroughly. Serve coated with a white or cheese sauce.

Smoke me a Mackerel

The mackerel is a round fish, in season from October to July, but at it's best during March to June. Mackerel has distinctive blue-black markings on the back and a silvery underside. When fully grown it may be up to 30 cm (12 inches) in length.

The flesh is oily and the flavour is best when the fish is eaten fresh from the sea. When buying mackerel, make sure that it is perfectly fresh. Choose a fish that has clear eyes, bright colouring and bright red open gills. It should also be stiff although this is not an infallible guide, as stiffness may be due to ice storage. Frozen and canned mackerel is also available.

Mackerel may be steamed, grilled, fried or baked. Suitable accompaniments to serve with them include parsley, fennel, gooseberry, apple, caper and mustard sauce and maitre d'hotel butter. They are also delicious split in half, dipped in oatmeal and fried. Soused mackerel is prepared like soused herring. If desired the prepared mackerel may be soaked in a marinade for about an hour before grilling or baking, then served hot or cold. Smoked mackerel may be served grilled or fried or used in pates, soufflés, flans or salads.

Spinach - not just for Popeye!

This is an annual or a perennial plant with succulent green leaves. Spinach should be picked young and eaten as soon as possible after picking. It is then a good source of vitamin C and an excellent source of Vitamin A. It also contains a good percentage of calcium and iron, but probably neither of these is available to the body because they form insoluble salts with the oxalic acid also present.

You need to allow about 225g (8 oz) spinach per person. Wash it well in several lots of water to remove all the grit and strip off any coarse stalks. Pack it into a saucepan with only the water that clings to it, heat gently and cook until it is tender, 5-10 minutes. Drain it thoroughly and re-heat with a knob of butter and a little salt and pepper. Alternatively, the spinach may be sieved and 1-2 tablespoons of white sauce, cream or soured cream may be added.

Re-heat before serving.

Spinach leaves can also be used in soups, salads or pureed as a vegetable.