What's in Season in May?

Twenty-ninth of May,
Royal Oak Day;
If you don't give us a holiday
We'll all run away.

Children's rhyme
Northern England

In May, Spring is well rung in and Summer is on the way, along with some of the special delights which make a brief appearance only at this season. Asparagus is typical, which really gets into its stride by 2 or 3 May. The flavour of English-grown far outstrips that of year-round imports. Use the best spears in a creamed chicken dish, Norfolk Turkey Breast with Asparagus, Somerset Brie and Asparagus Quiche or Asparagus Mimosa; the less perfect specimens are ideal for Asparagus Soup.

Things really get going on several fronts in May. Apart from asparagus, new potatoes from Pembrokeshire and Jersey are also leading the way into the shops. Both these excellent foods need little embellishment - minimal cooking and just a dab of butter before serving.

The early apricots and cherries which come in now are firm and not too sweet, so include them in savoury recipes. Fish should be good at this season and makes a light main dish suited to the warmer weather. Shellfish is also popular for May-time meals.

British strawberries will be starting, coming from East Anglia, Kent, the south coast, Cornwall and Devon. Young broad beans will just be appearing by mid-May. The newest ones can be eaten pods and all (so long as you string the pods). Otherwise, boil them quickly in salted water or add them to bacon in a risotto.

Rhubarb, Rhubarb

Rhubarb is particularly abundant in May. It is strictly speaking a vegetable, being the stalks of the plant, but since it is cooked and eaten like a fruit, it is commonly included under that heading. The stalks, which vary in colour from green to red, are best picked when young; they are ready for eating in the spring and early summer, before the majority of home-grown fruits are available.

Rhubarb has a pleasant, refreshing flavour, particularly when the better varieties are grown. The leaves should be discarded and no attempt should be made to use them as greens as they contain Oxalic acid which is poisonous. Some popular desserts using rhubarb are: Rhubarb Crumble, Rhubarb and Ginger Cheesecake, Rhubarb Flan and Rhubarb and Orange Flan.

Food from the Wild

Always take extreme care when eating plants from the wild - make sure you have the right plant and wash it scrupulously.

In the past, May represented the hunger gap, when winter-stored vegetables were exhausted and new crops had not yet begun to ripen. Country people would scour the hedgerows for tender weeds like chickweed and nettles and make green tonic soups. Try whizzing tender nettle tops into a hot potato and onion soup at the last minute. The formic acid that causes the sting is destroyed by cooking, but only pick them up to the start of June. In high summer the leaves turn coarse, bitter and are decidedly laxative.

Chickweed also makes a tasty addition to soup, or serve with oranges, shallots and a strong dressing for a winter herb salad.

In praise of Poussin

In the days when there was no poultry industry as such, it was only the wealthy who tucked into birds reared especially for the table. At this time, people would be served the first poussin or spring chicken of the year.

Poussin are chickens slaughtered at around five weeks. They weigh from 350g - 700g (12 oz - 1 lb 9 oz). They are in the shops all year, but are best now. They have a soft texture, pale colour and delicate flavour.

They can be served as a whole bird per person; be sure to season well. Sea salt, ground black pepper, a few herbs and slivers of garlic tucked into the cavity should do it.