Discovering the pleasures of taste
British Regional Cooking

The Scottish Kitchen - Fish

Fish has played a great part in the economy and cuisine of Scotland. The famous salmon rivers and the lochs and streams filled with trout have been the paradise of fishermen from over the world. The vast shoals of herring provided fish of good quality as did the white fish -cod, haddock, plaice, halibut, whiting and so on, which provided nutritional food not only for Scotland, but for the U.K. and beyond. Aberdeen has been recognised for cured fish since the thirteenth century (an art possibly acquired from the Norsemen) and the curing/smoking of herring and salmon was a very important part of the trade of Glasgow. Shellfish of all kinds have been referred to as staple items of the Scottish diet since the eighteenth century. The Scots have always held fish and game as prime foods. Scottish salmon is one of nature's healthiest foods, offers excellent value for money, and is available all year. It is perfect for poaching, steaming, baking, barbecuing, grilling and microwaving. Since it is so rich and filling, I reckon that a 150g (6 oz) portion per person is adequate, so again, a little goes a long way. To this day, given the choice, I always eat fish rather than meat.

My parents were both in business and each worked long hours, so our evening supper could often be served around 8pm (later than most families). It was always a cooked meal, so fish was ideal. Living on the West Coast, the fishwives called at your home, early evening, with the day's catch still jumping in their prams. I particularly liked the flounders, which my mother simply dusted with a little seasoned flour, and shallow fried in a little butter - delicious!

Jugged Kippers

This is the simplest and easiest ways to cook kippers, especially for breakfast and particularly acceptable to those of us who today, prefer them to be less oily when served.

1. Use a jug large enough to accommodate the required number of kippers.

2. Remove the heads and tails, and place the kippers in the jug.

3. Fill the jug with boiling water and cover it with a saucer or cling film.

4. Leave for about 8 minutes, depending on the size and number of kippers.

5. Drain well and serve on heated plates, with a knob of (parsley) butter and perhaps a wedge of lemon.

Why not have jugged kippers, preceded by porridge served with compote of dried fruit, both made quickly in a microwave oven, and enjoy a healthy Scottish breakfast which is easily prepared in a very short time?

As I grew up, my mother always prepared the porridge the night before and left it in the coolest part of the coolest oven in her solid fuel stove. This saved time in the morning, and meant we could eat straight away.

Today, with the speed of the microwave oven, it can be ready in minutes, and can even be cooked and served in individual cereal bowls - and each member of the family can cook their own whenever they want.

Grilled Stuffed Herring

Herrings (cleaned and gutted), fried in oatmeal and served with mustard sauce were another quick simple supper treat in our home. We always had two herrings each. However with more time to spare there are many other popular, nutritious herring dishes to be enjoyed such as potted /pickled/soused herring, and of course this one, which is more substantial.

Ingredients - serves 4
225g (8 oz) frozen spinach, defrosted
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
50g (2 oz) butter
50g (2 oz) breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
4 boned herrings

Method
1. Place spinach in a sieve and press out liquid.

2. Fry the onion in the butter for 2 minutes.

3. Add breadcrumbs, spinach, cheese and seasoning. Mix all well together.

4. Using scissors, make 4 small slits down each side of the herrings.

5. Stuff fish with mixture, securing cut edges with wooden cocktail sticks.

6. Place in a greased shallow flameproof dish, or grill pan and grill under a grill, pre-heated to moderate, for 10 minutes on either side or until fish flakes easily.

Shrimp Stuffed Trout

Wonderfully innocent, healthy, food - just what I like.

Ingredients - serves 4
4 trout, each weighing 200-250g/ 8-10oz
1 spring onion, chopped
1 stick celery, finely chopped
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped red pepper
50g (2 oz) butter
Salt and pepper
100g (4 oz) broken shrimps
100g (4 oz) breadcrumbs
1 egg, beaten

Method
1. Cook stuffing: place onion, celery, red pepper, butter, lemon juice, and seasonings in a Pyrex dish. Microwave on high 2-3 minutes or until vegetables are partly cooked.

2. Add shrimps, breadcrumbs and egg. Mix well and use to stuff trout. Tie trout with string, or secure with wooden cocktail sticks.

3. Arrange fish in a round ovenproof dish with tails towards the centre. Cover with cling film.

4. Microwave on high for approximately 12-14 minutes, or until trout flakes easily.

5. Leave to stand, covered for 5 minutes before serving.

Grilled Salmon Fillets

Simple, plain, but oh so satisfying and full of flavour. No need for sauces to detract from the natural juices and superb taste - but I can only speak for un-farmed Scottish salmon.

Ingredients - serves 4
4 pieces of thick salmon fillet, each weighing 150-200g (6-8 oz), skinned
50g (2oz) melted butter

Method
1. Brush the salmon all over with the melted butter.

2. Place on a lightly greased grill pan, and grill under a pre-heated grill for about 8 minutes, or until cooked, turning once.

3. Arrange on a serving dish, spoon over remaining butter. Serve with choice of vegetables or salad.

Smoked Salmon Parcels

I simply adore Scottish smoked salmon, even on its own with buttered brown bread, but this is something special. Hope you enjoy it, as much as I do.

Ingredients - serves 4 as a starter
125g (5 oz) fillet of fresh salmon,skinned and roughly chopped
50g (2 oz) smoked salmon trimmings, roughly chopped
150g (6 oz) smoked salmon slices
1 egg, beaten
Finely grated rind of half a lemon
Pinch of cayenne pepper
100g (4 oz) full fat soft cheese
100ml ( 4 fl oz) soured cream or crème fraiche
1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped
Salt and pepper
Lemon wedges
Fresh dill sprigs to garnish

Method
1. Place the fresh salmon and smoked salmon trimmings in a food processor and blend until smooth.

2. With the motor running, add the beaten egg and process till evenly blended. Transfer to a bowl.

3. Stir in lemon rind, season with cayenne and chill for at least 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile in a bowl mix the soft cheese with a tablespoon of the soured cream or crème fraiche. Chill 10 minutes.

5. Stir remaining cream or crème fraiche into the chilled salmon mixture.

6. Line 4 ramekins with the smoked salmon slices, allowing some excess to hang over the rims.

7. Half fill with salmon mixture, place a spoonful of cheese mixture on top, and finish with rest of salmon mixture on top.

8. Fold over the overhanging smoked salmon slices to enclose.

9. Cover ramekins with foil, stand in a roasting pan half-filled with boiling water.

10. Bake in an oven pre-heated to160C/325F/Gas 3 for 20 minutes or until just set and firm to the touch.

11. Remove from the pan and leave to cool to room temperature.

12. Chill if liked before un-moulding. Serve with lemon wedges, garnished with sprigs of fresh dill.

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